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BOULDERING IN DAHLONEGA!

Info was taken from Mountain Project‘s site

COOPER GAP DAHLONEA, GA

35 climbing routes (listed below)

This is a cool little bouldering area about 20 minutes out of Dahlonega along the AT. It faces south and is a great place to boulder in the winter. It is no rocktown, but it is a nice place to enjoy the mountain top view and get a full day of bouldering in. There are a handful of boulders within a couple minutes from parking as well as some boulders and a small cliff about 1/4 mile hike up the AT from parking. Also, there is a single boulder on the left about 3/4 ways up the trail to the top. The hike to the top is well worth it for the view alone. There are also tons of boulders scattered along the steep south facing slope, but access and steep landing areas are an issue. Many of the boulders are grown over with lichen and moss and have vegetation on top. But recent cleaning has revealed some quality problems that may have been climbed in the past. If you come here, please pick up after yourself.

There is camping at the parking area, but spaces are limited. Luckily, the Hiker Hostel in only 15 min away.

Getting There From the Hiker Hostel

  1. Turn right out of Hstel heading toward Dahlonega, turn right onto N Groove St/GA-60 BUS N.
  2. Continue to follow GA-60 BUS N
  3. Go 1.2 mi
  4. Turn right onto Camp Wahsega Rd
  5. Go 8.4 mi until you arrive at Camp Merrill
  6. 6.Turn right onto Coopers Gap Rd go until it splits into three directions and park

Mud Butt 5.8
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Das Spitzenkörper
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 60′
Season: winter is best
Description
This route starts on the left side of the cleaned slab. It follows the slab up to the crack in the bulge just to the left of the big detached block under the bulge. Pull through the crack and finish on easy slab to trees. Takes good gear.

Location
Left side of slab.

Protection
Light rack. Nothing special.

 

Fast Eddie 5.9
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Elmer Keebler
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 60′
Description
This is fun route that goes up the slab to the detached block under the bulge. Place a number 3 or 4 C4 in horizontal crack and then reach up and clip bolt. Pull over fun jugs then continue up easy slab to pine trees.

Location
Middle of slab. Sling pine trees at top.

Protection
From a .75 – 4 C4 and a quickdraw. One bolt.

 

Keebler Elf 5.7
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Ernest J Keebler
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 60′
Keebler Elf
This route goes up slab to the right side of the detached block in the bulge. Reach up and place a #4 nut and red C3 in a small crack. Pull jugs over bulge to easy slab and continue up to pines at top.

 

Gnomon V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: El Guapo
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 10′
Description
Very fun problem. Starts low left with right fingers in vertical pocket and left hand on sloper. Move up to good V-shaped ledges. Go either straight up arete from there (using massive ledge around left side of arete makes it V0) or go right to jug and then throw to lip. Mantle up! Great problem at the end of the day!

Location
At the top of mountain. When you arrive at the main roof area go right and problem is on right before trail starts steep down hill.

Protection
pad. great landing zone

 

Gnomon Direct V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: La Guapa
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 10′
Description
Same start as Gnomon. Once at v-shaped ledges, go straight up arête rather than out right to jug. Top out at tallest point. Using massive ledge around the left corner of the arête is off.

Location
Top boulders

Protection
pad

 

Gnomon Sit V3
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: La Chihuahua
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3
Length: 10′
Description
Sit start on low ledge. Throw up right to jug and finish out on Gnomon. May be more difficult for taller folks. You can also work left to the start of Gnomon rather than throw to jug, but it goes a little easier.

Location
Upper Boulders

Protection
pad

 

God’s Kool-Aid V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Jim Jones
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 20′
Description
Same start as Low Traverse. Work right up to lip of roof. Follow lip of roof for a couple few moves right and mantle the middle-right area of the roof.

Location
Located on the middle boulder. Same start as Low Traverse.

Protection
pad

 

Graduation Hangover V5
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Cthulhu
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V5
Length: 15′
Description
The crux is the third move. Very fun problem requiring a good mix of precision and strength. Good rest pocket under roof. Reach up to good pinch in roof and go out to lip and mantle.
Location
just right of Mystery of the Blue Box

Protection
pad and spotter for final moves

 

Drop Knee V3
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Karl Hungus
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3
Length: 12′
Description
Fun variation to Name?. Start left hand on the same start hold as Name? and right hand on right facing undercling ledge. Move up using slopey ledges to the right and go sraight up without using the holds on Name? or using Sleazy Crack.

Location
Name? boulder

Protection
a pad

 

Low Traverse V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: The Dude
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 30′
Description
Start far left of boulder. Move right around short arete under roof. Stay low and move right along low jugs all the way to the V0 slab problems. Finish up V0 slab.

Doing traverse in reverse is very fun and makes moving around the arete under the roof a little more interesting.

Location
Middle boulder. Start is far left of boulder. End is far right.

Protection
None. You’re never more than a couple feet off the ground

 

Melanoma Sunset V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Marley
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 12′
Description
Starts just right of V2 Roof Crack on slanted left-facing jug. Reach up to pocket and sloped crimp. Reach up to lip of roof and mantle. Don’t use the jug at the top of the roof crack.

A lower start requiring a big dyno from a compression on two small crimpy ledges is still an open project. It will probably go much harder.

Location
Upper boulders. Just right of V2 Roof Crack.

Protection
pad

 

Middle Boulder Warm-ups V0
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Dick Dastardly
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V0
Length: 10′
Description
Basically everything where the roof ends and to the right. This is a good spot to warm up or just mess around with tons of holds to choose from.

Location
Middle Boulder

Protection
pad

 

Mountain Top Traverse V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Kenny McCormick
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 15′

Start down right at the end of the roof lip. Traverse the lip out, turn the corner, and go up to where the tree is closest to the rock. Avoid using the horizontal pockets up high doing the initial lip traverse.

 

Arching Arête V1
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: The Great Gazoo
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V1
Length: 20′
Description
Start low on small jugs. Work up arête using the arête and left arching seam. Either top out with an easy but committing move or exit left just before top out.

Location
Lower boulders. Right arête of main boulder

Protection
pad or two and a good spotter if topping out

 

Mudsicle V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Scrappy Cornelius Doo
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 12′
Description
Sit start on any of the three jugs at the bottom center of the picture. Work your way up to the jug under the roof. Go straight out over roof and mantle.

Location
Left-center of middle boulder.

Protection
a pad

 

The Mystery Machine V2+
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Norville Shaggy Rogers
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2+
Length: 15′
Description
Start on left juggy sloper and on right sloper ‘brow’ and move straight up. Don’t use the left slanted ledge to the left or the vertical crack pocket to the right.

Location
Center of main boulder at lower boulders

Protection
pad

 

Mystery of the Blue Box V3+
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Chewbacca
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3+
Length: 15′
Description
Start on bulge/crimp on quartz band then move up to right hand roof finger jug. Go out to crimp on tiered roof lip and match. Go for final roof lip and mantle.

Location
Located in the first roof section at top of mountain.

Protection
pad and spotter

 

Name? V4
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Early Cuyler
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4
Length: 12′
Description
Sit start matched on lowest ledge. Crux is 2nd move pulling up off left hand crimp. Move straight up and top out on big easy slopers. Don’t use holds on Drop Knee.

Location
2 minutes hike in from parking

Protection
One of those fold-up mattress things

 

Name? Left V4
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Early Cuyler
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4
Length: 12′
Description
Same start as Name?. Once you reach the slopers after the crux move, trend left to the arete and top out. Avoid using the left side of the arete.

Location
lower boulders

Protection
pad

 

Ol’ Long Johnson V4
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Hugh Hefner
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4
Length: 25′
Description
One of the first problems I started working at Cooper’s. Very fun must do problem! Starts back in the ‘cave’ in pocket under roof. Traverse under roof to the arete. Reach out for hold on lip of roof. Work out lip of roof and mantle. Continue up slab to top.

Location
Located at lower boulders close to parking. Around the corner from the middle of the lower boulders.

Protection
pad

 

Ol’ Long Johnson: Extended and Uncut V2+
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Bob Guccione
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2+
Length: 25′
Description
This is an extended version of Ol’ Long Johnson. Instead of pulling the V4 mantle of Ol’ Long Johnson, continue left on lip and then work up the arête. About halfway up arête, pull over onto the slab and continue up easy slab. You could work the arête the whole way up if you wanted, but the fall would be bad.

Location
Lower boulders

Protection
A few pads. The more the merrier!

 

Orange Arête V1
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Barney Rubble
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V1
Length: 12′
Description
Sit start with right hand on arête and left hand on lowest slanted jug. Work up the arête staying on the left side of the arête. Top out at tallest point.

Location
Located to the right of Will of Steele at lower boulders

Protection
A pad. Don’t fall on small tree.

 

Orbit City Traverse V4
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Astro Jetson
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4
Length: 25′
Description
Start is the same as Tall V2. From start, go right to the left slanting ledge start of Spacely Space Sprockets. Continue right along slopers of The Mystery Machine. Figure out how to move right using a gaston (where a vertical pocket used to be) or finger ledge and continue right along crimps and small jugs to the start of Arching Arête. Finish up the arête or come off. Basically stay below the red line in the photos. Using holds above it makes this considerably easier. Everything else is on.

Location
Main boulder at lower boulders

Protection
a pad or two

 

Pig in a Can V0
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Porky Pig
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V0
Length: 12′
Description
Slab on the backside of the Orange Arête boulder. Goes straight up center of the slab and tops out at the highest point.

Location
Lower boulders on same boulder as Orange Arête and Will of Steele

Protection
pad

 

Pixie and Dixie V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Mr Jinks
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 12′
Description
Start right hand on a small rounded ledge and left hand on a small crimpy pinch with big feet. Work up through small undercling and another left crimpy pinch to a good crimp and small jugs. Walk off left or go straight up. Don’t use the holds on Arching Arête.

Location
Starts just to the left of Arching Arête.

Protection
pad

 

Rainbow Butterfly V3
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: maybe me maybe not
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3
Length: 10′
Description
Fun sit start on low jug. Cross up to right hand mini pinch/jug and then to left hand pocket. Finish straight up over bulge!

Location
Bottom of slab wall area to the right. Can’t mistake this problem.

Protection
pad

 

Return of the Cookie Monster V3
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Professor Chaos
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3
Length: 12′
Description
Sit start on detached blocks under roof. Reach up to hold in notch. Big reach from holds in notch to a slanted ledge. From ledge go up to lip of roof and mantle.

Location
10 ft right of Graduation Hangover

Protection
pad

 

Sleazy Crack V-easy
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Pattie Boyd
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V-easy
Length: 12′
Description
Step on to big ledge and work up using the crack.

Location
right of Name? and Drop knee

Protection
Don’t fall. Bad landing.

 

Spacely Space Sprockets V1
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Cosmo G. Spacely
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V1
Length: 22′
Description
Start side-pulling on left slanted ledge to the right of Tall V2 arête. Go straight up following jugs and top out over the overhung lip at the top. It’s hard to see, but there is a massive jug below overhung lip.

Location
At main boulder at lower boulders. Right of Tall V2 and left of The Mystery Machine.

Protection
a pad or two

 

Tall V2 V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Jesús del Taco
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Length: 25′
Description
Start on lowest side pull ledge on the arete. Move straight up arete to a right hand pinch. Reach up and out left to a ledge and then right to a jug below lip of roof. Mantle over roof at the highest point!

Location
left arete of main boulder at lowers boulders

Protection
Pad and spotter

 

Upper Boulder Warm-up V0
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: The Infraggable Krunk
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V0
Length: 6′
Description
Basically anything to the left of the arête of Mountain Top Traverse. Covered in jugs and ledges and great for warming up.

Location
Upper Boulders

Protection
pad

 

V2 Roof Crack V2
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Keyser Söze
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2
Description
The problem starts on the obvious small jug and crimp towards the bottom of the crack. From start reach out and jam the crack and reach for the jug at the end of the crack. Mantle the top. This crack will have water flowing out of it days after a good rain.

Location
Located at the top overhang area.

Protection
Pad

 

Water Ear Smear V3
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: La Chingada de la Gata
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3
Length: 10′
Description
Sit start matched in undercling smearing feet on little quartz, or so I think, bulges in the rock. Throw up to slanted crimp with left hand then go straight up to the highest point of the boulder.

Location
Halfway down the trail from the Gnomon to the rope routes.

Protection
pad

 

Will of Steele V4
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: El Chingado del Toro
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4
Length: 10′
Description
Sit start with left hand in undercling and right hand on lowest side pull. Crux is moving from start to big slightly sloped hand. Work straight up avoiding rubbing your back on the wall behind you. If you start matched on the undercling the problem goes about a grade harder but may be really hard for taller people as you are really balled up.

 

Location
Located at the lower boulders on the boulder leaning towards the right arete of the main boulder.

Protection
Pad

 

Black Streak Reach V1-
Georgia : Coopers Gap
FA: Pvt Pyle
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V1-
Length: 20′
Description
Start low and move up jugs to a decent reach to a mega jug. Follow black streak up and top out up right at top of obvious crack.

Location
Located at upper area down the trail from Mountain Top Traverse on your left.

Protection
Pad

 

 

 

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